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Users > Dors > Ajars's Tug Guide

The Basics

How to Play

To play Tug, you must meet an opponent at a Tug Court (there's at least one near every Chariot Stop), with the Ante to play. The Ante for most Tug Courts is a measly 7 wood. At the Court, click on the desk, and select your opponent's name. They must do the same. Once this is done, the game begins.

The Tug Court consists of 7 squares. The cart begins in the center square, and each player has 50 points. You do not gain any more points throughout the game. To win, pull the cart completely off the Court on your side, or have the cart end on your side of the Court when both players have 0 points. You can tell which side is yours by watching which way the cart moves when you win or lose a bid (explained below).

On every turn, each player selects a number of points to bid. Once both players have input their bid, the cart moves toward the side of the person who bid the higher number of points. On a tie, the cart moves nowhere. Regardless of whether you win or lose the bid, the number of points you bid is subtracted from your remaining points. To bid more than 9 points, click the +10 button, then a number one through nine. So, clicking +10 once and then clicking 3 bids 13 points. Clicking +10 three times and then clicking 0 bids 30 points. If you go 5 minutes without making a bid, you are considered to have forfeit. As mentioned above, if you pull the cart completely off the Court, or have the cart on your side of the Court when both players run out of points, you win both the game and the antes (14 wood, usually). If the cart ends exactly in the center, the game is a stalemate, and then ante is lost.

Basic, should-be-obvious strategy in Tug is to try to overbid your opponent by as few points as possible (ideally, you bid 1 more than your opponent), and make sure that when you opponent overbids you, he does it by many points, wasting them in the process.

How to Advance in Rank, Levels, and Pass the Test

I will be writing up a separate guide for this part, as all Conflict games use the same ranking system, and the system itself is fairly complex. Until then, feel free to /chat Dors or Ajars in-game for a quick explanation.

Tug Strategy

Note: This strategy guide is based only on my personal experience and play style. The strategies outlined here should not be viewed as a concrete guide, but merely a rough suggestions for certain situations. However, I believe it should be at least marginally useful for new players, playing other new players. For almost every situation, there is no single "right" move. Your goal is to choose the move that he isn't expecting. Try to anticipate what your opponent anticipates you will do... or anticipate what he anticipates you will anticipate he anticipates you to do... and so on. ;-)

Who's Winning?

Determining who has the advantage is mostly a combination of both the cart's position on the Court and the point count. There's no formula, but if the cart's on the center square, who has the lead is obvious (likewise if the cart is on your side of the Court, and you have either a point advantage, or a very slight point disadvantage). After playing quite a few games though, you should be able to sense if you're at an advantage/disadvantage, based not only on cart position and point count, but the momentum and tone of the game. Practice makes perfect, etc.

The Opening

The opening moves are extremely important, and typically set the tone of the game. First, decide if you wish to win the first bid, or lose the first bid and make your opponent waste points. The only time you should intentionally lose the first bid is if your opponent is very aggressive (you expect him to bid upwards of 7 points). If you wish to win the first bid, as you often will, you have three choices (which you use should depend, as always, on what you expect your opponent to do).

  1. Bid 1 point: Do this only if you expect your opponent to bid 0 points, because they believe you will be aggressive and bid high.
  2. Bid a mid-range amount of points(2-5): Do this when you expect your opponent to bid a low non-zero number. Opponents bid low non-zero numbers when they expect you to either bid a very large number of points (7+) or 0 points. For example, many players will bid 2 points. This will cause you to waste a substantial amount of points if you bid high, but will still outbid you if you bid only 1 point.
  3. Bid a large amount of points: Do this when you expect your opponent to bid aggressively, but you don't want to take the risk of giving him an early advantage in favor of making him waste points. This move is extremely effective if you manage to outbid him by a small amount of points. On the other hand, if they bid 0, you've wasted quite a few points. Or worse, they might outbid you by a small point of points, leaving you demoralized and at a disadvantage.

Strategy if you've won the initial bid

Congrats! You took an early lead, hopefully wasting only a couple points. You now must decide if you want to make a rush for an early win by pulling the cart off your side of the Court, or if you want to merely make a feint, then bid low, to gain an advantage in the point count. If you're going for a quick win against a newer player, you'll typically want to continue to bid increasing amounts of points, as they'll try to outbid you back. More experienced players might instead bid low on purpose to gain a point advantage, and then fight back when you're run out of steam. As always, try to figure out what your opponent plans to do, and bid accordingly. The downside of trying to push for a quick win is that it usually results in you wasting quite a few points by overbids, and if it doesn't work out, you're almost guaranteed to lose.

Instead of pushing on, at any point during your initial rush you might want to temporarily give up the momentum and bid low. You'll usually want to do this if you expect your opponent to bid high to outbid you, and you've wasted too many points overbidding in the previous turns. Purposely losing a square and forcing them to waste a large amount of points, only to come right back in on them strong and hard, can be particularly damaging psychologically. Watch out if your opponent is expecting this move though, as they'll bid a low amount too, avoiding the point waste.

Strategy if you've lost the initial bid

Hopefully, you meant to be in this spot, yielding cart position advantage in order to gain a point advantage. If not, you've got some work ahead of you. Your opponent will typically follow one of the two strategies listen in the section directly above this (either pushing on for a win, or merely making a feint so that you'll waste points). Less experienced players who are overly aggressive can be thwarted by bidding low for another square, giving you a sizable point advantage, and then using your point advantage to outbid him and stop him dead in his tracks. Veterans, though, might anticipate this strategy and bid lower to avoid point wasting (or bid 0 when they expect you to try and outbid them with an excessive bid). Personally, I don't like being in this situation, as there's a lot of ways things can go wrong, and you don't have the momentum on your side. You might be able to get out of this predicament from the start by bidding over the top of your opponent's high bid on the second turn, ideally putting the cart in the center, with you having the point advantage. As always though, you're out of luck if your opponent anticipates this and bids low, because then you're left in the center square with a point disadvantage.

The End Square

The only turn more important than the first bid, is a bid when the cart is on the very end of the Court. These situations are commonly called "coin flips," after the belief that you either bid low (usually 1-3 points), or the full amount of your opponent's remaining points. Personally, I believe there are three options, not two, but I'll get to that in a bit.

I'll refer to the player who has the cart on their side as the Aggressor; if they successfully win one more bid, they pull the cart off completely and win. The player who is possibly one bid away from the defeat is the Defender. Unless you're truly telepathic, you want to be the Aggressor.

The Aggressor has three basic options. The first is to bid all your remaining points. Unless your opponent matches or defeats this bid, the game is over, and you've won. However, if they successfully anticipate this, you're out of points, and are screwed. The second is to bid 0 (or some other very low number), in hopes that your opponent bids your maximum amount of points (losing the "coin flip), which will give you an insurmountable point count advantage, with the Court advantage to boot. On the other hand, if they bid a mid-ranged, expecting this (winning the coin flip), you're usually left with a large point disadvantage. The third option is one that many players (including some experienced ones) overlook. This is to bid high, but nowhere near your maximum amount, somewhere in the range of <twice your remaining points>-<opponent's remaining points>. If your opponent bids mid-ranged, thinking you're bidding low to make them waste points, you've overbid them and won. If your opponent bids your remaining amount of points, you and him are roughly tied in point count... except you've got a two-square advantage on him, courtwise.

The only option the Defender has is to correctly guess which of the three possibilities the Aggressor is going to use. This is obviously very difficult, and there's not much you can do except try to get into his head and predict his move. Being stuck in the Defender position is rarely ever a good thing.

Winning Mathematically (a.k.a. "The End Game, 1/2)

There are certain situations where you can be guaranteed a win. Rarely, you will get the cart to your end-square, and have only one or two points less than your opponent. In this case, obviously, you want to bid all you can. Even if they match your bid, they only have two points to move three squares, so you've won... but that's obvious, and not what this section is really about. More commonly, you'll find yourself with a point advantage when both players are running low (usually less than 12), and maybe even the Court advantage. In these situations, you can guarantee a win by bidding only one each time. Even if you don't have that luxury, but are close, you can wring out an advantage by switching up your bids between 1 and 0, so your opponent has to repeatedly guess right, or risk spending points without moving the cart/wasting points, either of which will help you get that extra edge you need.

You can guarantee a win by bidding 1 each time if you have the advantage in (points + squares) and they do not have 2 points per square they need to pull the trolley off their end. The best they can do is give up a square for a point, or a point for a square, and you maintain your advantage. You can also guarantee a win if you can reach that situation from where you are by making a sequence of higher bids. However, that requires a greater points advantage.

Occasionally, you'll find yourself losing, and your opponent will try to prematurely guarantee his win by using the above method of betting low. It's possible to get yourself out of this hole, as explained in the next section.

Saving yourself from certain Doom

Never, ever give up. If it looks like you're doomed for sure, your opponent may make the mistake of becoming arrogant, and slipping up enough for you to eek out at least a tie, possibly even a win. The most common case where you seem-doomed-but-aren't-quite is when your opponent has a significant point advantage when both of you are running low on points. If the opponent is experienced, he'll usually try to win by bidding very conservatively. You'll have to nickel-and-dime your opponent out of his advantage, usually by bidding 2s when he bids 1s, to threaten him by drawing the cart near to your end-square, and then bidding 0 when he bids 2s. Your skill in this type of play, combined with your ability to play when the situations are reversed, is known as your "end-game play." Having a good end-game is a huge advantage, and a great asset, so this is something you'll want to practice.

Occasionally, your opponent will have too many points for a nickel-and-dime situation to even be possible. Your only hope in this case is if your cart is near your end-square. By overbidding your opponent (as always, hopefully with little-to-no point waste), you can draw the cart to your End Square. Unlike the section earlier, there aren't three possibilities anymore, as the point count on both sides is too low for the mid-range bid option. This is a true "coin" flip, where you must either bet it all, or bet 0. With luck, your opponent will lose the coin flip, and you'll overbid him and win, or underbid him and make him waste enough points to give you a fighting chance. In all honesty, the chances of this working aren't good. I can personally vouch that it's possible however. Dors and Kvin were playing their second game of a Rank 4 match. Kvin had won the first game, and it looked like he was almost certainly going to win the second; the cart was 1 tile from center in Dors's favor, but Kvin has a very large point advantage. Fortunately for Dors, Kvin was playing conservative to try and maintain his near-certain victory. By overbidding, Dors pulled the cart to his end-square, and Kvin lost the coin flip, bidding Dors's remaining points, while Dors bid 0. Even still, Kvin had a substantial lead, and Dors had to bid the cart back to his end-square, where Kvin lost another coin flip, with the same results as before. The point waste from both coin flips combined was just enough to force a tie. (Dors went on to win the next three games, and the match).

After The Match

Just because the Match is over, and someone's advanced in Rank, doesn't mean the work is done for either player. If you've lost, don't just run off without a word (or a quick complaint), as it gives the impression you can't handle the loss, and are a poor sport. Also don't blame your loss on bad luck. That's a poor excuse, and downright rude, as it belittles your opponent's victory.

If you've won, don't quickly thank the player for the game and then say goodbye, as it shows disrespect to your opponent. Stick around and talk with your fallen foe, either about Tug strategy (but not in a condescending manner), or if they're not up to it, anything else, for at least several minutes. This lets your opponent know that he wasn't just another person you stepped over in your climb for the top, but a worthy opponent. Even if the game was a landslide victory, don't be cocky and arrogant; jerks always get their come-uppance.


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Last edited October 28, 2004 12:17 am by Dors (diff)
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